Pulverize the dried shrimp in a food processor, cook it in some butter ... Award-winning writer and a co-author of “The Red Boat Fish Sauce Cookbook.” She is the former chef-owner of Good ...

For even more umami, I add Chinese dried shrimp roe and fresh tobiko (flying fish) roe. This makes far more of the topping than you'll need for two servings; the leftovers keep for at least two ...